Maldivian Craftmanship: Braiding Kasabu to the Neckline
| Author(s) | Shafeeq, Ahmed |
|---|---|
| Title | Maldivian Craftmanship: Braiding Kasabu to the Neckline |
| Alternative Title | Dhivehi Masakkaiytherikan 24: Kasabu Boavalhah Gethun (ދިވެހި މަސައްކަތްތެރިކަން : ކަސަބު ބޯވަޅަށް ގެތުން) |
| Publication Type | Journal Article |
| Language | div |
| Number of Pages | 3 |
| Location | Maldives |
| Keywords | Tailoring Clothing Maldives Libaas Craftmanship |
| Relevance to ICH Safeguarding | training capacity building transmission revitalization documentation |
| ICH Genre | food culture ecological knowledges and practices social practices |
| Description |
Kasabu Boavalahah Gethun is the art of braiding the Kasabu (a special thread that comes in either gold or silver) to the shape of the neckline (Boavalhu) of the Libaas, a form of traditional dress in the Maldives. Braiding Kasabu Boavalhu has existed for centuries within the Maldivians. According to the author, while it is difficult to determine exactly how long this female-dominant art has existed, it dates back at least to the 18th century. It flourished in the early 20th century but declined due to resource scarcity caused by World War II. The Kasabu Boavalhu Elhi Libaas, or the Kasabu-decorated dress, was traditionally worn for official events and social occasions. Braiding the Kasabu Boavalhu is an intricate art that can take up to several hours. Following are the equipment required: - Gathaafai: A round wooden base displaying the traditional Maldivian lac-work. This is used to balance the Gathaafaige’ Boa and act as a loom during the braiding. - Gathaafaige’ Boa: A round firm cushion covered with a white cloth used to pin and arrange the Kasabu during the braiding. - Foali Bai: The Kasabu is spooled on 34 individual weighted bobbins made of fine grain wood or fish bone (resembles lace making bobbins). The artisan will use the Foalibai to manipulate and guide the Kasabu. The heavier the Foalibai, the tighter the braid. - Baalees: A weighted equipment made from fine grain wood or fish tooth spooled with Baadhalaa (a thin and flat material made with silver or copper). The traditional Kasabu Boavalhu mainly has 3 kinds of sections to it: - Hiru - Bagiyaa - Rodhigandu Each of these sections are divided into many more parts and are arranged in particular order. As such, the Bagiyaa always follows the Hiru. The Hiru can be either gold or silver Kasabu. The Bagiyaa is braided with either Kasabu and silk or Kasabu and cotton. The Bagiyaa after the Hiru pattern repeats 3 times before 4th Hiru is followed by a Rodhigandu. The Rodhigandu braided by weaving Baadhalaa into silk, cotton or thread. After this, the Bagiyaa after Hiri pattern repeats another 3 times before the last Bagiyaa is followed by an especially wide Hiru. The Bagiyaa that follows this special Hiru is the last section of braiding the Kasabu Boavalhu. This is called the Vah Bagiyaa. However, the thickness and arrangement of each of these sections differ based on the artisan, and status. As such, that sometimes the Vah Bagiaa is replaced by another Hiru called Thundu. After the Kasabu Boavalhah Gethun is done, what follows is Kasabu Boavalhah Elhun. This is involves arranging and stitching the braided Kasabu to the Libaas. This is a separate art that involves another skill set. The arts of the Kasabu has been in decline ever since its diminish in the mid 20th century. The artisans that know the art is rare. However, there are several efforts being made to revitalize this art. This includes courses by individuals who know the art, and the provision of government subsidies, awards and recognition to these individuals. |
| Book/Journal Title | Proclamation(Faithoora ފަތްތޫރަ) |
| Publisher | National Center for Linguistic and Historical Research (Dhivehi Bahaa Thaareekha Khidhumaikuraa Gaumee Markaz) |
| Place of Publication | Male', Maldives |
| Date of Publication | Feb 1984 |
| Issue | 59 |
| Pages | 9-11 |
| Access URL | https://saruna.mnu.edu.mv/items/da3de25f-06c4-4445-8b9b-79b1999852f9 |
| Academic Field | Arts and crafts Cultural studies |
| Community/Ethnic Group | Maldivians craftsmen |
| Contributor | National Centre for Cultural Heritage |
| Active Contribution | Maldives, FY 2024 |
| Data Collection Project | |